Some recent photos:
Removable nose cowl:
I absolutely love the way you did your canopy. Very sharp.
Quote from: gravitywell on Feb 01, 2026, 08:55 AMI absolutely love the way you did your canopy. Very sharp.
Thank you!
Different lighting:
overhead view:
Very clean and crisp finish.
Sun Feb 1 2026
Hi Ekram! It's good to have you and your Chipmunk back. That very attractive, uncluttered paint scheme, looks smooth and elegant, at the same time. :)
Lastwoodsman
Richard
Quote from: Lastwoodsman on Feb 01, 2026, 01:36 PMSun Feb 1 2026
Hi Ekram! It's good to have you and your Chipmunk back. That very attractive, uncluttered paint scheme, looks smooth and elegant, at the same time. :)
Lastwoodsman
Richard
Thank you!
A view with different lighting:
I got some Canadian flag decals in the mail today:
I am contemplating whether or not to use this spinner that I cut down from a 500 series P 40 warhawk spinner. If I do use it, it will be painted red of course. But I don't like the way it protrudes out from the nose. It does not look very realistic that way. Any opinions? Thanks, in advance.
I think that I will just go with one of those simple Comet style sheet wood props. That way it will be easier to make a spinner that fits closer to the nose:
QuoteI am contemplating whether or not to use this spinner that I cut down from a 500 series P 40 warhawk spinner. If I do use it, it will be painted red of course. But I don't like the way it protrudes out from the nose. It does not look very realistic that way. Any opinions? Thanks, in advance.
Yes I agree - especially as you have done such a neat job of this model. I think I would consider using Tom Hallman's approach or similar - mounting blades on a dowel hub with a separate hollowed out balsa spinner. the blades terminate at the spinner and you only need to drill a hole for the round dowel hub.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lV7z8MGE460&list=PLP6c2w2UvGmeX5W-FBP4SbPbPydcHUBzG&index=17
This may help give you some ideas.
John
Quote from: OZPAF on Mar 17, 2026, 02:28 AMQuoteI am contemplating whether or not to use this spinner that I cut down from a 500 series P 40 warhawk spinner. If I do use it, it will be painted red of course. But I don't like the way it protrudes out from the nose. It does not look very realistic that way. Any opinions? Thanks, in advance.
Yes I agree - especially as you have done such a neat job of this model. I think I would consider using Tom Hallman's approach or similar - mounting blades on a dowel hub with a separate hollowed out balsa spinner. the blades terminate at the spinner and you only need to drill a hole for the round dowel hub.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lV7z8MGE460&list=PLP6c2w2UvGmeX5W-FBP4SbPbPydcHUBzG&index=17
This may help give you some ideas.
John
Yeah, he makes great props. But I don't have that skill set or the jigs and tools. I think I am just going to go with the simple Comet style sheet wood prop which can be adapted to the spinner that I already cut.
I tried the Comet 6" printwood prop on a Phantom Fury. Wasn't expecting much from such a small prop on a 32" span model, but it pulled it up very nicely. I didn't have the model long - that prop pulled it up into a thermal and it drifted away, never to be seen again.
Mike
Quote from: MKelly on Mar 18, 2026, 01:41 PMI tried the Comet 6" printwood prop on a Phantom Fury. Wasn't expecting much from such a small prop on a 32" span model, but it pulled it up very nicely. I didn't have the model long - that prop pulled it up into a thermal and it drifted away, never to be seen again.
Mike
Mike, I was actually inspired by that video to go with the simple Comet sheet wood prop. I think it will work fine. I am going rig up a spring release shaft from a spring that I got from a ball point pen. There will be a wire prop clutch that the prop shaft engages with and the spring will release it when the rubber runs down to free the shaft from the clutch so that the prop can freewheel.
I got the blades cut and painted the front. I just have to cut from the back on the lines and glue at a 45 degree angle. I made the blades separate from the hub because I am going to attach them with some flexible plastic to protect against hard landings.
Prop hub with spring and clutch:
I did not realize that "Cherry Red" had a pinkish hue to it. I thought that it was just going to be a deeper red to match the nose cowl. Now I have a spinner that kind of favors a "Hot Pink".
A little more spinner/prop progress:
I got the spinner assembly almost done. I still have to glue the spinner to the spinner hub and then sandpaper spinner hub to conform to spinner and then paint to match. It is till a bit of a scale compromise but at least I got the spinner closer to the nose.
It's coming on well Marc.
I've never seen a free wheel system like that before. It's very compact.
John
Quote from: OZPAF on Apr 14, 2026, 11:27 AMIt's coming on well Marc.
I've never seen a free wheel system like that before. It's very compact.
John
Yeah, that is what makes it so challenging. The spinner is slightly larger than scale in representation, but I was pushing the limits of minimal internal space for the prop shaft so I had to allow for more room which means that I ended up with a spinner that is bit larger than scale. It still looks better than if I had built the model without a spinner. It is just an experimentation. I have never done it before, so I'll find out by experience how well it will work. The prop shaft goes through a brass eyelet glued to the center of the prop hub.
I designed a freewheel hub for 3D printing. Uses bamboo sticks and cottage cheese cups for blades. The design allows you to adjust to the desired pitch and is pretty easy to get a spinner of almost any size.
Quote from: pedwards2932 on Apr 14, 2026, 10:23 PMI designed a freewheel hub for 3D printing. Uses bamboo sticks and cottage cheese cups for blades. The design allows you to adjust to the desired pitch and is pretty easy to get a spinner of almost any size.
Looks good, do you have a physical example?
The larger prop is 9.5" on a Guillow Arrow. The Spitfire prop is 6.5". I don't have any other decent pics.
Looks good. You should sell these.
I agree, I am making a similar propeller, following the Maxfliart Youtube video, and making the brass tube freewheel part is the mot tricky
Quote from: Piecost on Apr 15, 2026, 03:04 PMI agree, I am making a similar propeller, following the Maxfliart Youtube video, and making the brass tube freewheel part is the mot tricky
Yes, it would help a lot of modelers out to have 3D printed hubs. I am surprised other retailers have not taken advantage of it. Maybe they have, but I am just not aware of it. I knew that the spinner was going to be challenging to replicate per scale. Maybe I should have gone with my first choice of a cut down 900 series P-51/Hawker Typhoon spinner. But what I have is starting to grow on me. It gives the model character and accentuates its "Chipmunkness". Besides, I have seen a lot of RC chipmunks that don't exactly have the most scale proportional spinners.
I am still contemplating whether or not I want to rethink the whole spinner situation. This is what I have. Any honest opinions welcome. Don't be afraid to be honestly critical if you feel that way. All opinions welcome.
It looks pretty good to me Marc - the only slight improvement would be to have the skirt of the spinner a little closer to the cowl. I'm not sure I would go through the whole spinner exercise just for that!
Paint and finish is first class.
John
Quote from: OZPAF on Apr 17, 2026, 03:33 AMIt looks pretty good to me Marc - the only slight improvement would be to have the skirt of the spinner a little closer to the cowl. I'm not sure I would go through the whole spinner exercise just for that!
Paint and finish is first class.
John
Well, you know I tend to be a masochist about these things when I am not satisfied. And since I am in for the "long haul" I am willing to take whatever time I need to get it right. I might build a spinner with a frame work and then fill in the spaces with pieces of strip wood. :-\
So, I went with the framed up spinner, which will be filled in with strip wood and sanded to shape. I'll put a "ceiling" inside the spinner to prevent the prop shaft from going too high into the spinner when disengaged from the clutch and getting caught in the "rafting". As a side issue, You can see that I have not actually glued the canopy in place yet as I am planning to put some profile pilots in the cockpit. Also, without a lot of reflective light, you can see that the tissue is not exactly "white". I used the EZE tissue which is labeled as "natural" which is like linen. If I had used a true white tissue it would have been more vibrant. But I used the EZE tissue because it was easier to cover the wings with and it is strong.
One more photo:
I am also using a smaller diameter thrust button which I sanded down to a flat stump which will allow the spinner to be placed closer to the nose.
Well that is definitely being masochistic Marc :) but good on you.
When you say you will be adding strip balsa to the spinner frame - do you mean more curved strips like the existing frame?
As an alternative - you couldn't add a balsa ring extension to your existing spinner?
John
Quote from: OZPAF on Apr 24, 2026, 03:47 AMWell that is definitely being masochistic Marc :) but good on you.
When you say you will be adding strip balsa to the spinner frame - do you mean more curved strips like the existing frame?
As an alternative - you couldn't add a balsa ring extension to your existing spinner?
John
The strips of wood will create a wider diameter than the existing framework and then be sanded to match the curvature of the frame.
You can see from the photos that there is a "Ceiling" inside the spinner to prevent the prop shaft from getting caught in the "rafters" when freewheeling. It is still a bit large per scale because I had to add a few circular bases at the bottom of the spinner but it is closer in shape to the scale version.
This is what I have so far. I will fill in the remaining spaces with balsa filler before painting:
Still a bit large, but there is a compromise with some models between scale appearance and functionality:
A little more smoothed out:
Initial coat of paint:
Some addtional paint:
finger shot:
A few different angles:
Prop pitch gauge:
Well done on the spinner - a real challenge at that size using curved strips. You have good eyes!
John
Sorry to be so late to this. especially after you doing such a nice job, but have thought about vacuum forming the spinner? It is my goto for spinners because of the room you have.
Secondly, is there a chance you could post the plan in the plan section?
I have not seen this plan and it may qualify for the Guillows Challenge.
Garry
Quote from: OZPAF on May 03, 2026, 03:23 AMWell done on the spinner - a real challenge at that size using curved strips. You have good eyes!
John
:)
Quote from: Garry on May 03, 2026, 04:24 AMSorry to be so late to this. especially after you doing such a nice job, but have thought about vacuum forming the spinner? It is my goto for spinners because of the room you have.
Secondly, is there a chance you could post the plan in the plan section?
I have not seen this plan and it may qualify for the Guillows Challenge.
Garry
I have not yet wanted to take the plunge with vacuum forming my own spinners/canopies/cowlings. With respect to the plans,the impression I got, and I could be wrong, is that any currently manufactured kit's plans were off limits to publish in the plan section due to copyright infringement. If anybody can validate or refute that please step up to the plate!
I found this via google search:
https://vueloverde.com/en/free-flight/4717-kit-construccion-avion-gomas-guillows-903-de-havilland-dhc-1-chipmunk-432mm.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqnL5agpGvaS1fESnhXaAQKidcAvB7ND1kUhrxunvpjBV4ajzDL
My understanding is that Guillows have agreed that pre-1970 designs that are no longer in production can be posted publicly (which is why the Plan Gallery specifies
Guillow's PRE-1970s Vintage and Out-of-Production ONLY)
So check with the Guillows web-site what they have on the current production list. Just because someone has it for sale isn't necessarily an indicator of current production - there is a lot of NOS still around.
the reason I ask is because the 50-2 Kit has not been in production for some time and a lot of the 50- series of kit plans are allowed in the 100th anniversary contest. The current production kit 903 can purchased on their site. Sorry if this has led to a little confusion.
Garry
Quote from: Garry on May 03, 2026, 02:13 PMthe reason I ask is because the 50-2 Kit has not been in production for some time and a lot of the 50- series of kit plans are allowed in the 100th anniversary contest. The current production kit 903 can purchased on their site. Sorry if this has led to a little confusion.
Garry
It is basically the same model but maybe with a few additional drawings on the older version. Anyway, I uploaded it. It is a very old plan and in very tattered condition. I uploaded it as 8 images. 4 on the front and 4 on the back. Just have to wait for the administrator to validate it and post images.
Thanks Marc
Looking forward to seeing the plan. I may try to stitch it together and repost it, if that is OK with you.
Quote from: Garry on May 03, 2026, 04:09 PMThanks Marc
Looking forward to seeing the plan. I may try to stitch it together and repost it, if that is OK with you.
No Problem.
The third time might be a charm. :-[ What can I say, I am the ultimate masochist. And before you ask, no, I am not yet interested in trying Vacuum forming. Call me dimwitted for doing things the hard way! Actually, at this point, I think that vacuum forming might be a lot more involved than this experiment that I am trying. I ordered some small diameter springs from China off of E bay. So, the unit will be even more compact. I will also sand the thrust button to a smaller diameter to fit inside of the new spinner. We'll see how this one goes. ::)
These are the springs that I ordered: https://www.ebay.com/itm/145770205872?var=444867652490. I am going with the 2mm diameter. Just enough to fit around the brass eyelet. I think that I might also go with basswood for the prop blades and hub.
"Masochist"? No just determined :)
John.
I have not gotten my micro springs from China yet, But I have also been considering going with a Garami clutch set up:
I have to say that the Garami clutch has usually worked very well for me and it is so easy to make and set up!
Quote from: Jmk89 on May 21, 2026, 04:22 AMI have to say that the Garami clutch has usually worked very well for me and it is so easy to make and set up!
It looks like a good option. But I will think it over between now and the time my springs arrive.