Dear All,
I'm trying to find Lozenge scheme as a picture, that I could use to print an A4 page.
Currently I want to test by printing the scheme on a tissue and then experiment on methods of shrinking, doping etc.
Does anybody have an idea where I would find such schemes? Even if it is not Logenge, still a side view of a fuselage or wing (any scheme) would be good for trying.
Many thanks
Best regards
Spiros
Hi Spiros, Mike Stuart covered this on his website some time back. Try looking here.
https://www.ffscale.co.uk/page4e.htm
The Australian War Memorial collection has three pieces of lozenge fabric from WW1 and has given the colours used their colour numbers. Here are two (no photos, but some interesting information) :
https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/C111049
https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/C110687
There are also two articles in Aeromodeller - November 1957 and May 1958 - which may help (both issues available from the HPA Plans Gallery)
Dear Tim , Dear Jeremy,
Thank you both!!! Exactly what I was looking for.
I'll try to post a couple of results, if are any good.....
Already three models for IIFI 2026 and my head is spinning for a fourth....
And of course, I HAD TO DO IT!.
I think the experiment went well......
The printing was on a white tissue, using an inkjet printer.
The printing was surprisingly good. (Pic No1)
So on the test.
First corner was water (for testing the shrinking) and it was ...... bad. (Pic No2)
However, on the next corner, I used Clou thinner which I use for covering the model (after applying the Clou dope). Perfect. No change on colors (Pic No3)
Third corner was Clou itself which in any case is applied on the balsa. There was a slight matt change on the colors, but obviously this will come back again from the final finish. (Pic No4)
Fourth corner! I applied the dope which is 50/50 dope with nitro thinner. This is for shrinking and finishing as well. Absolutely no problems too. (Pic No5)
Center. Pure alcohol. Perfect result too. Therefore can be used for shrinking! (Pic No6)
Most probably this method is well known to most of you but that is my first time and I'm thrilled!!
...
That's a very satisfactory outcome, Spiros.
BTW another useful source is O G Thetford's 1943 booklet, Camouflage '14-'18 Aircraft which has a good colour plate of lozenge camo. I scanned my copy of this and put it up on the HPA 2 Plans Gallery and I went to put it up on the HPA 3 Plans Gallery, but before I did it, I had a look at it. It shows that over the last year I've learned quite a bit about making better scans. So, I re-scanned it and uploaded it to the Plans Gallery. It will be available once George reviews it.
Thank you so much Jeremy!
I will check it once it's available
...and it is up
https://hpa.aeromodelling.gr/plans/details.php?image_id=2022
Thank you George!!
So second part of the experiment, so far seems to be working.
I made a side of a fuselage, to test in practice.....
Picture 7 & 8 is the construction
Picture 9 is the application of the tissue, gluing it with dope and nitro
Picture 10 is the result of the covering
Picture 11 is the application of pure alcohol for streching.
Once stretched (might need a second application of alcohol), I will apply the finishing. Hopefully by tonight, as I want to follow the approximate timing as in normal construction.
....
The final result after application of one layer of finishing, which is 50/50 dope with nitro thinner.
The surface and the looks are very satisfactory. It seems that there were a couple of spots on the surface but I'm not sure if these were from the alcohol or from brushing hardly on the tissue.
Still for myself, this is a green light to use it if the whole process is done correctly and not have fat finger (like my self that opened a hole on the side..... ;D , hardly noticed on the pic).
Very classy. Looks like a stained glass window. Mike.
Thank you!.
Indeed it looks like a Vitro Glass....
That looks very nice Spiros, great job
A useful trick for shrinking tissue printed with water soluble ink is to use steam. It works well provided no droplets are allowed to sputter onto the tissue.
After a lot of experimenting and failures I found if you use an airbrush that it atomizes the water so well that I didn't get any splotching and the tissue tightened very well. I have just never been able to get the tissue sealed enough to not run when wet. I know the Epson printers have water resistant ink or a laser printer work but I don't want to buy a new printer
Quote from: Anyun on Jun 01, 2026, 12:26 AMA useful trick for shrinking tissue printed with water soluble ink is to use steam. It works well provided no droplets are allowed to sputter onto the tissue.
This is a next step for experimenting. Need to form up a fuselage and give it a try. Thank you!!
Quote from: pedwards2932 on Jun 01, 2026, 12:42 AMAfter a lot of experimenting and failures I found if you use an airbrush that it atomizes the water so well that I didn't get any splotching and the tissue tightened very well. I have just never been able to get the tissue sealed enough to not run when wet. I know the Epson printers have water resistant ink or a laser printer work but I don't want to buy a new printer
I was also asked this question from a fellow in Greece. If I used water resistant inks, but this was not the case.
And for sure I'm nobuing a new printer.
However, I will give it a try with the airbrush as well. Thank you very much for the tip!
Quote from: Squirrelnet on May 31, 2026, 07:55 PMThat looks very nice Spiros, great job
Thank you!!!
Very nice made Lozenge, Spiros!
Cheers, Ramses
Thank you Ramses!!!
Very nice work I print all my lozenge on a Cannon printer and I use non genuine inks that don't seem to run. I use a very fine spray or mostly steam to shrink the tissue. As Lozenge is a first war thing there are not too many double curves to worry about so there is not much shrinking required.
That is a really fine example!!!
Obviously as it was my very first step, I will check alternatives.
Thank you for sharing!!
So, the final verdict, as I need the printing for my forthcoming built of Fokker DVIII.
One of the main issues is the water decals.
As previously checked on my mini experiment, the printout of the Lozenge tissue had a serious problem when watered.
During the last couple of days, I re printed the Lozenge scheme on Asuka paper (excellent quality by the way).
After the usual application with dope and nitro, I stretched the tissue with alcohol and then applied two layers of thinned dope to check if water could affect it.
And it didn't. So finally, I can confirm that once I apply two layers of dope, the printed tissue becomes water proof and is not affected.
I used some water decals that were prepared for my Jodel Bebe and the results are very satisfying!