GYPSY MOTH DH 60 DUMAS KIT 336 RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER 30 INCH

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60   DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Sat June 6 2026       Reply #15

Hangar Sign and Angled Brace Support

M and B  make a backing stand for the Hangar sign.

     First,  a little more preliminary work to set the mood for Mandrake and Bloodroot,  our devoted maintenance technicians.

     The angle brace support is made from  3/16" white Foam Board,  and round head pins,  and a couple of strips of scotch tape.    The actual Hangar sign is a printer color copy with a flimsy  12  thou file folder cardboard backing.  It can now sit on any pedestal.

     I know that the proportions,  of the Gipsy Moth box cover art,  in the Hangar pic,  are way off  (vanishing point lines? ),  but I tried to fix it up as much as possible.

Pic #1     3236     3/16" white foam board.

Pic #2     3240     Held together with round head pins,  and a couple of pieces of scotch tape at the back near the top.

Pic #3     3246     The Hangar sign sits on an angle for better viewing.

Pic #4     3249     View of the rear side of the Hangar sign.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60   DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Sun June 7 2026       Reply #16      post 1 of 2

Cowl Block and Nose Block
 
Pic #1     3254     I need soft clamps to hold these parts together while white gluing.

Pic #2     3259     The Hangar sign.

Pic #3     3261     Cowl Block pieces are glued up.

Pic #4     3263     These were difficult pieces to glue.   This was my plan.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60   DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Sun June 7 2026       Reply #17     post 2 of 2

Cowl Block and Nose Block

Pic #1     3265     Bloodroot constantly spins the pencil,  so it does not stick to the glue,  while the balsa dries.

Pic #2     3266     The two cowl block pieces glued up in position,  lining up their holes.

Pic #3     3270     Another look.

Pic #4     3272     Here these Nose Block pieces are finally glued together.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60   DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Mon June 7 2026       Reply #18    post 1 of 3

Nose Block  Cowl Block

     Well the  E3  tenon did not glue up exactly right onto  E2 .    I soaked them in hot water for half an hour (these are  1/8"  thick).    It finally got it  "loose" enough,  that I just slid it up the width of the pencil line,  to the correct scribed lines,  and pinned it up to dry.   It really was off when I test fitted it to the other parts,  so I knew I had to fix it right.

     Well,  I finally figured out the four pics in this plan cutout picture.   It alternates  COWL BLOCK  NOSE BLOCK  COWL BLOCK NOSE BLOCK  ,  instead of  COWL BLOCK  COWL CLOCK  NOSE BLOCK  NOSE BLOCK.    I colored one orange,  and one is pink now,   for the visual acuity.    Pink is Nose Block and Orange is Cowl Block.

      I should have cut out all four diagrams separately from the beginning.    'Little things'  that can stump a Senior ...

Pic #1     3276     The waterlogged part(s)  is darker in color.

Pic #2     3279     Orange and pink to separate the pics.

Pic #3     3284     Closeup of orange and pink.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60   DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Mon June 7 2026       Reply #19    post 2 of 3

Nose Block  Cowl Block

Pic #1     3287     The cowl block is glued and pinned up to dry.   It would later not hold,  and have to be re-glued with pin prick holes in the balsa mating surfaces.

Pic #2     3291     Bloodroot makes little pin holes in the mating surfaces.

Pic #3     3293     The noseblock is re-glued.   E7  and  E6  of the Nose Block are glued together,  after pin holes,  of course.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60   DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Mon June 7 2026       Reply #20     post 3 of 3

Nose Block  Cowl Block

Pic #1     3296     Three more gluing sessions to go ...

Pic #2     3300     Full rough test fit.   Exterior view.

Pic #3     3303     Full rough test fit.   Interior view.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60  DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Mon June 10 2026      Reply #21   

Nose Block  Cowl Block

Extra Tenon Doubler  part  E3

Pic #1    3324    Bloodroot traces out an extra  E3  'tenon'  doubler,  in case we need more downthrust later ...

Pic #2    3227    The tenon is sanded,  but still needs the hole for the rubber motor and prop wire.

Pic #3    3330    The extra tenon now has a slightly smaller hole,  which will be enlarged later.

Pic #4    3333    Test fit  -  this will be glued up much later when we check it.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

3 users  111 guests

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60   DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Thur June 11 2026       Reply #22     post 1 of 3

Nose Block  Cowl Block

Pic #1     3334     The two outside pairs get glued on top of each other.

Pic #2     3341     They are glued up and clamped up to dry.

Pic #3     3344     The white glue was oozing out  -  had to brush it off.

Pic #4     3345     Another view of oozing white glue.   Even with all this effort,   the glue did not hold,  and I had to apply more white glue again,  and it worked after the second application ....  and I still had to  "watch it dry",  ie  take apart the clamps and check if any parts slid out of place.   The whole Cowl Block Nose Block was very difficult to glue up exactly ...

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60  DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Thur June 11 2026      Reply #23    post 2 of 3

Nose Block  Cowl Block

Pic #1    3348    Cowl block on left,  Nose Block on right,  both are dry,  almost completed.

Pic #2    3349    On the right are the last two pieces of the Nose Block to glue together.

Pic #3    3352    The last two pieces of the Nose Block are glued together.    The roll of coins sits on three small balsa planks,  to apply equal pressure while drying.

Pic #4    3355    The Cowl Block 'tenon'  fits very snugly into the Nose Block  'mortise' .    And here is the fit of the prop wire shaft,  thrust button,  and eight inch black plastic propeller.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60  DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Thur June 11 2026      Reply #24    post 3 of 3

Nose Block  Cowl Block

Pic #1    3357    Here is the back side view of the assembly.

Pic #2    3360    Left front view of the separated  Cowl Block on left and Nose Block on right.

Pic #3    3362    And here is the fit.   

Pic #4    3364    Top view.  It was really hard to line up,  but I think I got it pretty close.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

Users  3  Guests  29

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60  DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Fri June 12 2026      Reply #25   

Nose Block  Cowl Block

Pic #1    3366    The round head hook end of the kit supplied  0.041" diam prop shaft 2 1/4" long,  the thrust button of  0.3"  7.62 mm and the 8" black prop are shown.

Pic #2    3369    Here is a better view of the kit supplied prop shaft.  Here is the rub.  The round head rubber end of the wire hook of the prop shaft,  is  10.0 mm  across,  and that wire hook will not go through the  0.3"  7.62 mm thrust button hole in the Cowl Block,  for easy Stooge Stretch Winding.    I have a heavier and longer  prop wire of  0.047" x  2 3/8" long to use,  but the hook end is too big also.    0.047"  3/64"  wire is the size that fits the thrust button perfectly,  but it needs to be longer, and the hook diameter must be less than  0.3" to fit through the thrust button hole in the balsa Cowl Block.  Even the Peck Polymers prop shaft #3 size  3/64" x 2.5" is too big at the 'squared'  hook  of  8 mm ( 9.65 mm  0.380" when measured diagonally)  either way    -  an  8.0 mm or  9.65 mm hook,  both,  will also not fit through  7.62 mm hole.  I have to  'flatten out' or compress that squared hook ...  easier said than done ...
 
Pic #3    3372    We took a few sanding rounds out of the cowl block nose block.  I also started looking at my propeller shaft collection - what is left of it.  The hook ends will not fit through the cowl block hole,  and the kit supplied prop hook is too thin and short.

Pic #4    3375    We got out some  3/64"  piano wire rod,  cutting pliers and holding pliers,  and needle nosed pliers, and a sanding stone for the sharp ends,  and proceeded to try and bend up a long prop wire of  0.047"  with a flattened oblong hook,  that will fit through the Cowl Block hole.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

users  3   guests  23

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60  DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Fri June 12 2026      Reply #26   

Nose Block  Cowl Block

Pic #1    3379    This was sanded with the green masking tape on,  so I would not sand the wrong area.

Pic #2    3381    Sanded to 300 paper.

Pic #3    3385    Nose Block on left,  Cowl Block on right.

Pic #4    3388    Nose Block on left,  Cowl Block on right.

    And that is the nose block and cowl block final sanded for now.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

users  5    guests  34

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60  DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Sat June 13 2026      Reply #27        post 1 of 4

Camo Color Scheme

    Well,  I started off yesterday preparing for the color scheme and eventual covering of the Beaver,  by photocopying more plans,  and clear taping the butt ends of the three  8 1/2' x 14",  pages together  ie  one long 3-page of a full wing layout etc.,  and making a lot of copies,  all  around,  for later on.

    In making all those photocopies,  I also traced a full length wing outline with ribs,  and I am now also considering a new Camo color scheme,  thanks to a little inspiration from  'livingroomflight' !   

    I intend to keep the same color scheme for the whole plane,  but both of the two upper sides of the wings only,  will be Camo.    I am going with a three color Camo -  light blue,  even lighter baby blue,  and  white -  on the Camo.    Each Camo patch will have a black outline,  which should cover up the tissue overlap.  We'll see - that's the plan.

Window Tracing

Pic #1    3391    My long,  original cut up plan sheet,  is taped against the window first.  Over that is the blank white printer paper of three sheets of  8 1/2" x 14" taped up lengthwise.

Pic #2    3392    The top third of the wing has just the outline and the ribbs traced in pencil.

Pic #3    3393    Close-up of the tracing.

Pic #4    3395    Fully traced outline and ribs,  on the window !!

Lastwoodsman
Richard
1 user  22 guests

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60   DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Sat June 13 2026       Reply #28             post 2 of 4

Camo Color Scheme

Pic #1     3400     Side by side  -  original wing,  and wing outline and ribs,  on the window.

Three camo color schemes and shapes from the interweb,  as examples.    I will try to make my own.

Pic #2     THREE COLOR 2

Pic #3     CAMO OUTLINE  2

Pic #4     MEDIUM BLUE   LIGHT BLUE  AND  WHITE CAMO

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

GIPSY MOTH DH 60   DUMAS KIT 336  RUBBER POWER PARK FLYER  30 INCH

Sat June 13 2026       Reply #29         post 3 of 4

Camo Color Scheme

Pic #1     LIGHT BLUE READY FOR CAMO  we will use this  'lighter'  blue  color scheme.

Pic #2     3405     This is my first attempt.   One white Amoeba shape of printer paper will be added at the right.

Pic #3     3398     Here is my Camo pattern on top of the other patterns from the net.

Pic #4     3403     For matching and comparison,  my Hangar Sign on top,   and the new Camo wing on the bottom.

Lastwoodsman
Richard