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#1
In the Work Shop / Re: DIY Balsa stripper
Last post by g_kandylakis - Today at 11:16 PM
Thanks Lurk,

that is good enough too. So, this probably leaves the US out for now. If I get the info for US screws & nuts, I can modify the STL files. Otherwise they only stay metric.
#2
In the Work Shop / Re: DIY Balsa stripper
Last post by TheLurker - Today at 11:15 PM
Just checked my tap & die set (bought very early 1980s) - all metric. 

However... it does have a card with some conversion to US standard sizes (NC, NF & NS)  in it.  Scanned copy too large to attach, will send in e-mail.
#3
Thanks Stephen. Yes it was and I find the iPhone camera often does . I've tried an add on mic but its too much faff

Max wind was only around 8 mph with most around 5 or less but the heat did make the air very bumpy . Ivan elected not to fly his large Spitfire due to the turbulent nature
#4
In the Work Shop / Re: DIY Balsa stripper
Last post by TheLurker - Today at 10:44 PM
Can't speak for other anglophone countries, but in the UK I haven't seen imperial sized nuts & bolts available new for decades now so I'd be tempted not to bother with any conversions.

Even in the 1970s it was getting difficult to get older sized nuts & bolts new and in all our technical drawing lessons (1977 on) it was M4, M5 etc rather than 3/8" Whitworth, 2BA etc.
#5
In the Work Shop / Re: DIY Balsa stripper
Last post by g_kandylakis - Today at 07:43 PM
temporary unlocked, for a "simple" question.

What would be the closest equivallents in imperial units of the following metric items:

Allen screws (thread diameter and thread length)

M3 x 10
M4 x 12

M3, M4 nut (wrench width, thickness)

Thanks,

George
#6
General Discussion / Re: What did you do aeroplane ...
Last post by Prosper - Today at 05:30 PM
Early today I rescued the model that flew into a hawthorn shrub last evening.

I spent wasted 15-20 mins last evening trying to spot the model before it got too dusky. Only when I reverted to looking from a distance with binoculars did I find it - standing out like a thumb which is sore.

This morning it hadn't moved and was still highly visible. After wrestling with a ladder I felt it was safe enough to climb (the ladder isn't propped against any solid branch in particular - it's just leant against a generality of twiggery and leafage. The worry here is that one's weight on climbing the ladder can cause it to sink into the foliage or twist and throw one off).

Anyway, when my feet were on the fourth rung from the top, I still couldn't see the model. Even though it was right in front of me. I finally latched on to it, after increasingly doubting my sanity. The model that showed so white from a distance was green from reflecting the leaves.

25 feet up. That's the Nth tree strike I've had recently, but the worst or joint worst in terms of recovery.

Then I went indoors for some breakfast.

Incidentally, the model is clearly visible (albeit slightly out of focus) in the last picture.

Stephen.
#7
Fokker FV11  peanut      Aug 12 2026

Very nice build and pics Stunthenk!   8)   You are inspiring me to get back at my stalled  30 inch Gipsy Moth ...

Lastwoodsman
Richard
#8
Hi Stephen.   Yes,  it is a fascinating build ...   8)   And the pictures are more than just excellent.  :o   You obviously put a lot of work into those pics!   Long live the  "core" !    ;D

Lastwoodsman
Richard
#9
I really enjoyed this video Chris, thanks. I suspected from the flight patterns that the camera mic. was exaggerating the wind.

Stephen.
#10
That sounds like a good idea. However, since I have none in stock, I'll have to stay with the basswood. But it makes me think that for a Peanut, you could use thread.
The next step for the F.VII fuselage was to add the U/C. I bent the main leg (the rear one) from 0,8 mm pianowire (21 gauge) and the supporting leg from 0,5. (25 gauge). The wire was bound to the crossmembers with fine silk thread and glued with medium CA; the ends were bound with fine copper wire and soldered.
The instrument panel will be hardly visible so I 'suggested' one with brown tissue on a former with the instruments indicated with a black marker using a circle template.
The nose sheeting was first made to size using a paper blank and was then cut from soft 1 mm balsa. The sheeting felt too coarse so I sanded about half the thickness off. When glueing sheeting I prefer to glue one side in  place before doing the rest. Unfortunately I damaged the sheeting in a clumsy movement so I had te make a new one. I decided to cover this on the inside with lightweight tissue for strength; that has the added advantage that it already curls. There are open windows at the rear of the cockpit; I glued lengths of thread in  place to make cutting them out easier.
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