HPA

It's nice to hear from you again, Crabby. We've missed you. Mike.

Wow! That was a lot of ribs!. The inner rib ends were upgraded to 1/16 from 1/32", as were the ribs on the upper wing at the dihedral breaks. They will be glued in place after the dihedral is set. Fortunately, I have some detailed pictures of a Sopwith Tripe that I took years ago at a museum in Calgary. I will install the wingtips next after they are sanded in X-section.
  My nephew was just at an airshow, and he gave me a picture of a P-51 that he painted. (Yes, I know - no stab. Think of it as a tailless version.)

The next item on the build list were the tail surfaces (anything to avoid the dreaded engine!) The stabiliser was built entirely conventionally, 2 mm thick with 2 x 3 mm LE's, 1,5 x 3 TE's en 1x5 x 1 mm ribs. The fin was built around a hot bent bamboo outline. Bending an outline this strongly curved turned out not to be too easy; it is essential to keep moving the bamboo as you bend it over the shaft of the soldering iron. If you hesitate is all too easy to get a crack or even a break. And all this as you are holding your fingers a few mm. from the iron! Anyway, the second attempt suceeded. The bamboo was from an old chopstick. For both the stabiliser and the fin I added a provision to separate the rudder an elevator.
With the tail surfaces built and sanded it was time to see if it was starting to look like an F.VII!

Hi Last wood.
I actually built a flying version of this thing and when it wasn't crashing comically, it flew spectacularly. It had a prop up front and was built from Don Srull plans. Right off the board it flew away on me. Next two flights it lawn-darted on me. But it was never boring. I kept the weight down to sub-20 grams for even the big one. I am going to build one more, I've done a pistachio and a walnut. It's the great altitudes this thing flew to then, I either looked like Einstein or Pee Wee Hermann.

You ought to adapt your story for the stage. Get the Rock and Jason Stratham to play the lead roles. I will sell fun-sized weenies and Pepto Bismol cocktails in the lobby during intermission.

If you are experiencing a prolonged period of builders block, clean shop. You may eventually come to the conclusion that someone of copious intellect once worked there. Throw away those needle nose pliers that you fight with. Gummed up brushes in the trash. You may fire up an ember!

I remember cleaning up Thee Old Man's workspace after he died. It was like he just pushed the chair back and left. He was building a Chambermaid. Fuse half done. I remarked to myself: "well, what was THAT all about? I have since answered that question several ways. Same with where he made his living, his studio-gallery. There was dried sage green Windsor-Newton watercolor in a favorite brush of his. He died a rich man.

I do that same thing George.  Sometimes I add a Z pause in the printing, then put the nuts in, then allow the printer to carry in and encapsulate the nut...

Andrew

I would just add that I did this on a blue and yellow model two years ago. It's still bright; plain Esaki would have faded by now.

Thank you. I will give it a try, amongst other experiments I will do 

I've used Panpastels after seeing the results on a model by Mike Kelly. Applied on the inside (rough side) of Esaki it gives a more vibrant colour. You can get a set of 5 or 6 colours for about £30

Dear all,

I'm currently preparing my Fokker DVIII and will be using printed tissue (asuka).

The result is really nice, however I would like to make it less trasnparent.

The method I'm using is shrinking with pure alcohol and then applying 50/50 nitro dope.

Therefore any solution to be applied under the tissue, should be compatible.

I have heard of chaulked tissue but have absolutely no experience.

Any feedback is much appreciated.

Thank you.