BEAVER DH C2 no 2 30 IN RUBBER DUMAS KIT 306 Nov 25 2025 to PRESENT

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306   

Reply #165     Sun March 22 2026    post 3 of 3

Rebuilding the broken old Wing with New Spars

Pic #1     2044     Small infill balsa wood slivers are added to the rib tails at the wing root.   I will sand the extra off later.
     
Pic #2     2045     There was not much with which to glue the covering around those two corners.

Balancing the wing laterally.

The right wing was heavier than the left wing.   

Pic #3     2048     Look how far over I had to move the wing to balance it.

Pic #4     2051     Here it is balanced.    I would end up having to put a small blob of clay weight,  of  0.70 g,   on the left wing tip ....

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306   

Reply #166          Mon March 23 2026

Rebuilding the broken old Wing with New Spars

Pic #1     2055     The wing is balanced now 0.70 g blob of clay on the left wing (right wing is heavier).

Pic #2     2052     Weight on the scale  0.70g

Reinforcements plates for the Trailing Edge

Pic #3     2060     These are  1/16" thick and tapered to match  the rib tail,  but not stick above the rib tails.

Pic #4     2061     You can see the taper on the plate at the right.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306   

Reply #167          Mon March 23 2026

Rebuilding the broken old Wing with New Spars

Reinforcements plates for the Trailing Edge

Pic #1     2062     Here is the long view down the table - you can barely see the bevel on the plates,  but it is there.

Pic #2     2063     Here they are glued in place.    They did not want to sit down completely flat -  good thing I checked before the glue dried.

Pic #3     2066     The two plates were not even sealing at the front and rear ends.

Pic #4     2067     I basically watched the plates dry as I moved the clothes pins around.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306   

Reply #168          Tue March 24 2026

Rebuilding the broken old Wing with New Spars

Reinforcements plates for the Trailing Edge and more balsa supports.

Pic #1     2068     Moving the clothes pins around.

Pic #2     2069     I finally got the reinforcement plates for the trailing edge,  glued up properly.

Pic #3     2070     Here is the fit of the Leading Edge of the wing to the angled stop B5.    It looks pretty tight.

Pic #4     2073     Here are four balsa pieces for the wing CS ribs to glue on to.     They must sit flat or slightly recessed  (these are not infill planks),  so as to not interfere with the flat bottom mating surface of the CS.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306   

Reply #169          Tue March 24 2026

Rebuilding the broken old Wing with New Spars

Dihedral Check

     The wing does not look too bad right now  ....

Pic #1     2076     Left wing is higher (the left wing is the one that broke off).

Pic #2     2079     And the dihedral in different light.

Fitting the Wing to the Fuse

Pic #3     2081     Ready to start fitting the wing to the fuse saddle,  before covering the wing CS.

Pic #4     2082     I made up a cardboard backing (sitting on the cowl) for the B5  Leading Edge stop,  out of ten thou file folder cardboard.    Three laminations  or  30 thou thick.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306 

Reply #170          Wed March 25 2026         post 1 of 4

Fitting the Wing to the Fuse

Cardboard backing for the B5  Leading Edge stop

Pic #1     2087     Test fit of the clamps.   I don't want to squeeze anything off too tight.

Pic #2     2091     Glued in place.   We ended up going with these light  clamps.

Dried over night.

Check of the fit now

Pic #3     2094     First check of the rebuilt wing fit.

Pic #4     2097     View from the left side.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306 

Reply #171        Wed March 25 2026         post 2 of 4

Fitting the Wing to the Fuse

Cardboard backing for the B5  Leading Edge stop

Pic #1     2098     Closeup of the fit of the CS LE and TE.   No more spaces.

Pic #2     2100     The left wing is a little bit higher than the right wing.

Pic #3     2101     I did make up two alum tubes for holding the wing down with elastics.

Pic #4     2102     Closeup of the elastic tiedowns.   The wing sits snugly in place now.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306 

Reply #172        Wed March 25 2026         post 3 of 4

Balancing the 30 inch Beaver

Pic #1     2105     I needed two blobs of gray clay,  each weighing about five grams,  to balance the model before all of these repairs.

Pic #2     2106     The  1/16" plate firewall that holds the tenon,  has come loose from the plastic cowl.   I knew this would happen ....   I now have an opaque  "ring seal"  of  cloudy dried white glue around the inside edge of the tenon firewall plate.    This ring of white glue slides right inside the plastic cowl,  for easy placement.

     I will try 5 min epoxy,  since I don't have any med CA glue.   At least I should be able to position the part using five min epoxy -  ie,   slide it right into place

Pic #3     2110     You can see the faded opaque white glue ring around the balsa plate.    We decided to try and glue it back on with the dried white glue as is.

Pic #4     2114     Bloodroot pushes tiny round head pin holes into the perimeter edge,  of the round plate firewall,  of the tenon.    Hopefully the five min epoxy hardens into these holes.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306 

Reply #173          Wed March 25 2026         post 4 of 4

Balancing the 30 inch Beaver

Pic #1     2117     Here the round tenon plate is glued back into the inside of the rear cowl ring.    The clay weight at the bottom,  gets pressed into the lower cowl where it sticks naturally in place.    The five gram clay ballast on top,  will get roller pinned back nice and flat,  and will sit right there on top of the cowl.     Now I can add more ballast to the top of the cowl,  as needed.

Pic #2     2119     The plane still balances with all of the original clay ballast weight.

Pic #3     2121     Straight on view of the balance.

     There is not much left to do ....  time to start watching the weather also ....

Pic #4     WIND FORECAST FOR WEEK STARTING WED MARCH 25 2026

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306 

Reply #174          Thur March 26 2026         

Sorry,  I forgot Pic #4    2114    in Reply #172  (senior's moment)

This is probably the most important part,   trying to keep the round plate  1/16"  balsa firewall,   glued to the white plastic of the cowl.    I have had this come apart upon crashing other models ....   

Pic #4     2114     Bloodroot pushes tiny round head pin holes into the perimeter edge,  of the round plate firewall,  of the tenon.    Hopefully the five min epoxy hardens into these holes,  and glues to the white plastic cowl ring also,  at the same time.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306 

Reply #175          Fri March 27 2026 

     The Center section is fitted to the wing,  and we now have to Silkspan cover the top of the CS,  and cover the  'transition' area at the wing panel root,  and we have to cover the top of the first bay in each wing panel.

     We cut some thin strips of Lite Silkspan to glue into the transition area.

Pic #1     2127     Thin strips of lite silkspan are cut out.
     
Pic #2     2129     Closeup.

     I was wondering how to hold the Landing Gear Fairings in place,  in order to properly distribute the impact force of landing,  into the strut and fuse side  -   ie  the strut has to stay in position in that strut cutout  "notch"  in the LG fairing.   We will try this elastic for the first glide tosses ....

Pic #3     2123     This temporary elastic goes all the way around the fuse.

Pic #4     2125     And here is the elastic and a small paper clip to hold it all together.     This is also my emergency 'dethermalizer'  -  when the rubber band breaks,  the LG fairings are free to flop away in the wind,  decreasing lift ...

     I will improve my glide tosses,  by running with the toss  -   hand finger launch propelling this plane,  means I never know if it will go straight or not ...  I want it to gently move off of my hand,  like George's batboat rising from its dolly ...

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306 

Reply #176          Sun March 29 2026    post 1 of 5

     We are covering up the cracks and curves with a bunch of thin strips of tissue.

Pic #1     2131     First strip of lite Silkspan.

Pic #2     2133     Second strip of lite Silkspan.

Pic #3     2137     The third pair of large strips will cover everything so far.

Pic #4     2139     And we will need the final two tissue panels,  for the first bay upper surface of each wing.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306 

Reply #177          Sun March 29 2026    post 2 of 5

Pic #1     2143     Both large strips are now glued.

Pic #2     2147     The two final covering panels are cut extra long.

Pic #3     2149     Ready for the glue,  then unroll the panels  (held at one end by green tape)  over the top of the wing,  right into their spots.

Pic #4     2150     The two panels are glued in and trimmed up.    Also the Center Section,  1/32" sheet  top plate,  is now glued into place.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306 

Reply #178          Sun March 29 2026   post 3 of 5

     The Landing Gear Fairings are not glued to the fuse,  just the LG wire.    So,  for the test glides,  I held the LG fairings in place with a temporary rubber band -   the strut has to stay in position in that strut cutout  "notch"  in the LG fairing.

Pic #1     2152     The elastic crosses high enough above the rubber motor.    The notch for the wing strut is partially covered in the pic.

Pic #2     2125      And this is the underside with a small paper clip holding the elastic ends.

Pic #3     2154     There is a thin gap in the fit of the wing on the left side root.   There is a long thin sliver of balsa,  to fill this gap,  sitting on the  big block of balsa in front.

Pic #4     2159     That sliver is now glued in place on top of the left fuse side.    Now the fit of the wing is good to glue.

Lastwoodsman
Richard

[Lastwoodsman]

BEAVER DH C2   30 INCH RUBBER POWERED  FREE FLIGHT PARK FLYER   DUMAS KIT 306 

Reply #179          Sun March 29 2026    post 4 of 5

Pic #1     2161     The building board woke up to a big dusting of snow and cold over night,  but it should all melt away.

Pic #2     2164     View of the finished underside of the rebuilt wing.

Pic #3     2165     Closeup of above.

Pic #4     2167     Morning light.   The new wing is fitted  with four coin rolls (not full) added for weight while drying.

Lastwoodsman
Richard